The flight and accommodation was a present from her children. She and her late husband used to take them to the island when they were little. She’s now drinking tea on her own in one of the bars by the main road. She stopped drinking alcohol a decade ago. Even African boys selling bags and toys do not approach her anymore. She has a big badge screaming ‘70 TODAY’ attached to her top. No one cares. The waiter brought her the bill for her tea. There’s no such thing as free tea for your 70th birthday in Puerto del Carmen.

Market in Teguise. How much? – I asked pointing at a big mask. Where you from? – the African seller replied. Is the price based on nationality? – I thought. Poland – my partner replied. These cheap ones for 40 euros – he pointed at small masks. What about the big one? – I referred to my original choice. These are expensive! 120 euros! These must be just for Brits or Germans – I had another thought. How much do you give, my friend? – He clearly read my mind. 20 – I replied. My last price 40, my friend. Polish price. 120 for Brits and Germans – he added.